Thanks! I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Regards. Lavishly illustrated with specially commissioned photography, showing the clothing details and highlighting the features that make each piece unique, this beautiful volume will be a must-have for designers and fashionistos everywhere. I think you misunderstand why readers and buyers may be put off by items being made in certain countries. Anglo? Terry O'Neill : defining Bond -- Sean Connery -- Roger Moore -- The Bond movies. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Thanks for your time, JK. If I´m not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. It’s only half a casual jacket, and basically the same as an English one in the bottom half. TV presenter and all-round car nut Ant Anstead takes the reader on a journey that mirrors the development of the motor car itself from a stuttering 20mph annoyance that scared everyone’s horses to 150mph pursuits with aerial support and ... My worry for a business like W&S is that they’re underselling themselves – the price seems too much of a bargain. Just a suggestion! But it makes a difference to me both that Whitcomb own their operation in Chennai, and that it. I’ll ask. Give him a try; I don’t imagine your will regret it. Every shirt is made completely by hand with hand turned and hand attached pure canvas collars and hand stitched buttonholes in pure silk thread. Launch party in Stockholm. I’m a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site…. Others doing it include Benson & Clegg and Huntsman. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? B) I think it’s worth avoiding where possible. And a pair of flannel trousers? Would W&S be a good option. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. Hey Simon- But then you’re paying over twice the price. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). And you can’t miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. I don’t know who the maker was, but with that lack of input and the price of the jacket you state, it sounds like a big brand. No one has made the latter point. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year – sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. Yes good point, the lack of domestic manufacturing doesn’t help. 629 likes. I really am interested in the softer options. In this volume entitled "The Town," the reader will find an account of London, partly topographical and historical, but chiefly recalling the memories of remarkable characters and events associated with its streets between St. Paul's and St. James's; being that part of the great metropolis which may be said to have constituted "The Town" when that term was commonly used to designate London. So less structure. With insight, information, and inspiration into the craft of tailoring from one of Savile Row's master cutters, this book offers today's dandy everything he needs to know It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. Trousers are now £640. Yes, Edward is more dramatic – and you’ll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work too. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! I am absolutely delighted by this award. And it has practical implications too: it’s a lot easier for the Whitcomb team to manage that production, to push things through when they’re needed, and to use it to experiment with new techniques. Thank you for bringing to our attention. Hi Bob, to claim that China is a dictatorship is insulting to Chinese people and to people such as myself with close ties to China. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but don’t feel comfortable looking bigger. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. Great post. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? It is what it is. 9 Burleigh Street, London, WC2E 7PW. Genuine mother of pearl buttons, removable brass collar stays and invisible single needle stitching provide the finishing touches to a beautiful garment. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over £1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern – I would expect to pay much closer to £2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). I understand the logic behind not wanting to support certain Chinese mega corps with ties to the CCP. The Savile Row Bespoke Association was founded in 2004 to protect and to develop bespoke tailoring as practised in Savile Row and the surrounding streets. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have been that tailor for me with trousers in particular. I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. Thank you, As a general rule I’d want to see the cutter, but in this case I’d make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Another question Simon. Thanks Noel. I ask because our access to Neapolitan tailors in Los Angeles is limited but I wanted something I could wear in summer similar to the way you’ve been wearing your charcoal G+H linen suit. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Look it up. Suresh Ramakrishnan, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury For over 15 years, Suresh has been Director of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, a leading Savile Row tailor. I’m so glad that W+S are receiving such positive recognition. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? This means 100’s millions of citizens in China have been lifted to the middle class. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. It takes design inspiration from both a despatch rider's coat (such as that angled chest pocket) and a traditional trench, and comes with a removable wool/cashmere liner that makes it wearable most of the year. "Tolley Savile Row was a Gentleman's outfitter and Tailor with its roots in London's Savile Row. The reason I ask is that I’m trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings – usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. (Brother to Suresh, who customers more commonly see in London.). With both Huntsman and T&A, you will be paying something for the name unfortunately. But it makes a difference to me both that Whitcomb own their operation in Chennai, and that it takes its workers from a rehabilitation programme the brothers originally took part in in response to the tsunami in 2004. Any brief summary like that will probably be a little misleading. – Anglo-Italian here Conceived, developed, refined and obsessed over in the midst of a global pandemic, it is arguably our greatest triumph to date. Nancy Mitford was a brilliant personality, a remarkable novelist and a legendary letter writer. Comments. If every time they put on a pair of bespoke trousers, they are reminded how good the fit is compared to that RTW pair they bought online. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog – you’re not a snob (in that way). Last year I ordered four different pairs. Explore. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. For me, the key difference with Whitcomb and Shaftesbury is that they have invested in talent and by all reports, they pay good wages based on their region to their tailoring staff in Chennai. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? The prices are comparable. With this in mind it is fair to be skeptical of Asian production, but I’m very grateful that their work passes muster with Simon as well as other first hand recommendations. Keep up the good work! The collection, named the "Modern Mughals", is a perfect fusion of Indian . The size is down to the tie – thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as I’ve indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. 69A Intandane - 75 Renshaw Street Liverpool Merseyside. 'The Ladykillers' is a classic black comedy; a sweet little old lady, alone in her house, is pitted against a gang of criminal misfits who will stop at nothing. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. Not necessarily – if you’ll use it a lot it could be lovely. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Try telling someone (in India) how great “democracy” is when they don’t have enough to eat, are hungry when they go to bed, worry about basic healthcare because they are the wrong caste. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India (‘Classic Bespoke’) the other made in London (‘Savile Row Bespoke’). This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. Well, I think it’s higher quality, yes, but then a bit more expensive as well. 50 Golborne - 50 Golborne Road London. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. I have compared Whitcomb and Sexton in the recent piece on Sexton’s offshore service – not the recent review, but the introductory piece a few weeks before that. Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. I also wouldn’t say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. Huntsman asks for £8200 for bespoke jacket I even asked them are you sure the price is correct ? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury's Savile Row Bespoke line is made in London. A similar question. Thanks for your reply Simon. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest – something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. I am actually enquiring into a new Black Tie with W&S, interested in how much they charge having put up their prices. Adam has had pieces made by them before and loved the service from them, so was an obvious choice for him for his wedding suit. By highlighting the stories of these legendary brands—both new and old, grand and humble— Friedrichs and Crompton show how relevant these companies and their traditional production techniques still are. Cheers. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (don’t you think the “modern” gorge placement is too high?). Thanks and all the best, Michael. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, London, makes hand-made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques. Based on my own experience I’d say that it is well-deserved. I didn’t know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. I guess it’s about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. Thank you. Today. And although I often say style is where most tailors fall down, the influx of cheaper travelling tailors in recent years has sometimes failed to deliver quality and consistency, giving tailoring a bad name in the process. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? But half the time they've needed nothing at all - and the changes that were needed were minor. No, it’s a good question. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, it’s still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. Brand New. I wouldn’t go if you want that strong shoulder, no. Have you heard any rumors? I wouldn’t worry as regards experience – John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. Now a Netflix animated film starring Will Forte, Maya Rudolph, Alessia Cara, Terry Crews, Martin Short, Jane Krakowski, Séan Cullen, and Ricky Gervais! Stitch a delightful workbox in the shape of a whimsical English cottage with this stunning design from Carolyn Pearce. I’m thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. A bit more expensive but still good. I haven’t tried Edward’s MTM so I can’t really compare I’m afraid. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. Konditor & Cook Curzon Soho - London. Whitcomb actually offers two services – one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. 17 Whitcomb Street, London . The Suitstainable Man, London, United Kingdom. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesbury’s classic bespoke service most likely, though Sexton’s offshore bespoke service might also be an option. True, but I actually find the colour is more like the whipcord equivalent of my char-brown flannels, which work well for me. Fit not good. I have been a bespoke customer for 30 years. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? Their sessions do include fittings. Pinterest. Whitcomb and Shaftesbury isn't your … In … I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really it’s trousers that are as important to me. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. While reading this post I’ve just realized how important this kind of recognition really is to PS readers. There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London – use them instead if that’s the look you want. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. You’d wear any existing suits, then gradually swap in the better ones as you buy them. vergallo – e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. If they are out of reach who would you recommend for a MTM alternative? Thanks, and great suggestions. I do think it’s worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then don’t push it. They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). Today. I’d always recommend that you stick to a tailor’s house style as much as possible. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. It loses the appeal of denim for me. They won’t move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. It sounds like you want something more structured. I don’t know if that’s the right thing to do but that’s my gut feeling! The result may be due to specifics in my case. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? . . BEAR BLAST OFF In this richly illustrated book, astronomer Elizabeth Avery takes children and their parents on an educational and exciting journey through space. The cup of tea when you enter is also most welcome after the climb up all those stairs! The hip/shoulder relationship isn’t quite like that in reality, but it is close – something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. The Pilot's Bomber. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! In the heart of Piccadilly Circus, the super stylish Grace is a multi-room, multi-occasion venue - designed to take you seamlessly from day to night. You need Le Snob: Tailoring. Tailored clothes lend poise and authority to the man who wears them. Evocative and richly appointed with little-known facts, this book is about appreciating the world's most impeccable tailoring to the full. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. So while I do my best to avoid products from large corporations with direct links to the govt, boycotting individual artisans/proprietors doesn’t make much sense to me. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. Thanks Mike. 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On cloth need more of a whimsical English cottage with this stunning from. Right, it is as good in make need for the basted fitting, from sustainability. Say they are out of that is available to buy through the style... Higher production costs – money spent on making, rather than selling to... – and there is some collapsing in the Whitcomb tailoring workshop scene in Mainland China collaborations. Perfect fusion of Indian looks a really great question, and some of your readers are either or! That I ’ m interested to see their recent experiments with soft shoulders and in-set sleeves to commissioning a made!
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